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True Colours

The versatility of wines from France’s Burgundy wine region


By Veronica Boodhan | February 2, 2011


When thinking of “burgundy,” one may associate the deep red colour with the name. But in France, it is Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) that is one of the country’s leading and premier wine regions, offering a wide-range of wine types.

“These wines are some of the most spectacular wines produced in the world,” says Aaron Bick, co-founder of WineOnline.ca. “They tend to have more complexity than most of the other regions in the world.”

It is not only the rich and complex taste of the wines that make this region so special. Burgundy’s historical roots have also helped form the wine region’s fine reputation.

The history of Burgundy’s wine region dates back to A.D. 312, being the oldest written reference of the region’s niche for wine production. The Romans brought the grapevines to the region to begin its production. In the Middle Ages, monks began managing the vineyards throughout the region. During the French Revolution in 1789, many of the wine-producing areas within Burgundy were destroyed. The vineyards were divided into smaller pieces of land and therefore, today in Burgundy, there are several small wine-producing areas.

The wines of Burgundy have four different levels, starting from the top, with Grand Cru, which Bick describes as “wines that tend to have the most aging potential,” followed byt Premier Cru. Then there is Village, which he says are “great young wines” and Regional. The Côte d’Or escarpment is famous for its Burgundy wines, especially in Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune.

As far as red versus white wine goes, Bick says they’re “both equally well-made,” while listing some vintages that did better than others for the region. For this decade, he says 2002 and 2006 were great vintages and 2003 was difficult due to France’s ultra-hot climate.

“We’ve spent time with the producers and we’ve watched the process of the wines being made. We’ve tasted wines that are good vintages and not-so-great vintages,” he says. “A sign of a really good producer is how their wines taste in a vintage [year] that is not as good. Anybody can make good wine in a great vintage; it’s not very hard. But when the vintage is more challenging, that’s when a great wine producer shows their colours.”

The red grape used in wine production in Burgundy is mostly Pinot Noir and the white grape used is mostly Chardonnay and Aligote. “I find that [it’s] the depth, the flavours and how much you can taste the style of the grower and producer over the terroir… the difference [that can be found] from one vintage to the next for wine producers from the same vineyard,” says Bick. “There are so many factors when tasting the wine. It’s fun to note the differences in the wine. The same grape grown in the same vintage, 200 metres from each other, can taste completely different. I find that whole process to be quite spectacular.”

With the region full of rich heritage, Burgundy has become a staple wine region for wine collectors to have in their cellar. Although Bick acknowledges that people may be weary of Burgundy wine because of some of its prices, he says it’s the diverse flavours and variety available in this region that makes it so unique.

“Burgundy is certainly considered one of the top wine-growing regions in the world,” he says. “There’s sticker shock on the higher-end ones but there’s sticker shock on wines from anywhere,” he explains. “For people who love wine and love burgundy wine, they’re going to be much more excited about stuff that’s higher-end.”

Beginning in January, Wine Online is offering its customers an opportunity to enlist in their private order offers. Based on a first-come, first-served basis, Wine Online is bringing in exclusive wines, many from Burgundy as well as some from Bordeaux, Rhône, Spain, Italy and California that are not being brought into Ontario or Alberta by any other wine company. Bick encourages people to take this time to try Burgundy wines for its diversity.

“They go really well with turkey and steaks. Pinot Noir tends to go well with anything. Burgundy wines are very versatile. White burgundy tends to stand up to chicken or turkey or a strong flavoured fish. They work well with different types of food.” •

Whether your taste is simple or refined, Wine Online’s Burgundy wine recommendations can help.

 

2009 Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay by Remoissenet Pere & Fils $21.95 per bottle (case of 12)
“This Mâcon-Villages is a clean, fresh Chardonnay with typical varietal fragrance and elegant, citrus and white fruit flavors on the palate. Vinified without oak contact, the delicate acid balance carries into a refreshing, crisp finish.”
 
2008 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes by Maison Roche de Bellène $24.95 per bottle (case of 12)
“High-toned fruit in the mouth. Fresh, sweet and with good texture too for the appellation, likewise concentration.”
Bill Nanson, The Burgundy Report, Aug 2010
 
2008 Bourgogne Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes by Maison Roche de Bellène $24.95 per bottle (case of 12)
“The 2008 Maison Roche de Bellene, Bourgogne Blanc seemed precocious with width, nice flavours and plenty of interest.”
Bill Nanson, The Burgundy Report, Aug 2010

2009 Laforet Bourgogne Chardonnay by Domaine Joseph Drouhin $24.95 per bottle (case of 12)
“Fruity and full of life. This is a classical white Burgundy and a good entry-level wine for Burgundy in general. The colour is golden yellow, with a greenish glint. The aromas are reminiscent of fresh grape and green almond. Elegant texture.”

Laforet Bourgogne Pinot Noir by Domaine Joseph Drouhin $26.95 per bottle (case of 12)
“The bright-red wine abounds in raspberry, wood and spice aromas. Tart raspberries also grace the palate, which is marked by firm structure and elegant fruit. The wine has more personality than most pinots in this price range. It’s an excellent value.”

2008 Chablis by Domaine Servin $27.95 per bottle (case of 12)
“The robe is yellow with green reflections. The nose is mineral and very elegant. White flower and orange notes gives this wine an elegant freshness. The palate is dominated by citrus fruits (orange) and white fruits (pear). The finish is very fresh mixed with rich and ripe fruit that fills the mouth and persists for a long finish.”
Bronze Medal — Chablis Awards 2010
 
2009 Marie-Antoinette Pouilly-Fuissé by JJ Vincent & Fils $34.95 per bottle (case of 12)
“Delivers a mix of apple, peach, honey and spice aromas and flavors, all matched to a vibrant structure. This is still young, with all its elements in harmony, picking up a mineral accent on the lingering finish. Best from 2011 through 2018.”
90 points — Wine Spectator, Web Only 2010 (2008 vintage)
 
2007 Cote de Nuits Villages Les Vignottes by Jean-Jacques Confuron $59.95 per bottle (case of 6)
“Good full ruby-red. Black raspberry, dark chocolate, licorice and smoked meat on the nose. Supple, sweet and stuffed with fruit. Sweet tannins will not get in the way of enjoying this wine right now.”
88 points — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Mar/Apr 2010

2007 Nuits St Georges Vieilles Vignes  by Domaine Robert Chevillon $99 per bottle (case of 6) 
“Quite animal and gamey on the nose. Rich and sweet. Good stuff — real solid satisfaction. I like this style of wine — no fancy bits, just solid transformation of well-grown grapes into an alcoholic liquid.”
17/20 — Jancis Robinson, June 2009

2007 Meursault Villages by Yves Boyer Martenot $79 per bottle (case of 6)
“Simply superb. Aromas of hand-squeezed lemonade and spring flowers blend with Mirabelle plums on the delicate yet sweet nose. Full of finesse and silky fruit, the mouth is medium-bodied and wonderfully long, with just the right amount of flesh and acidic balanced. Lots of yellow fruits and good, lacy lift on the tongue. Winemaker Vincent Boyer blends the best of the family village vineyards for a sublime wine run through with gold and mineral verve.”
 
2008 Puligny-Montrachet Les Reuchaux by Yves Boyer Martenot $94 per bottle (case of 6)
“’Reuchaux’ sits in the heart of the village, on rich clay soils. Its terroir encourages a Puligny with a more supple soul, smelling like spring yet tasting like summer. Aromas of fresh bay leaf and herbs mix with spring blossoms and a touch of earth; the mouth is pure and refined, a tangy marmalade of Meyer lemon and quince. Long, chiselled and full of verve.” 

 



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